At the end of the first week we moved to Sugar Hill, a gated
community on the west coast of Barbados.
From there, we visited St. Nicholas Abbey, a sugar plantation currently
owned by a local architect, who has restored and maintained the property. The plantation still processes sugar
for molasses and rum, which we tasted on our tour (8 year-old dark rum, rich
and mellow, and newly distilled white rum, sharp and astringent). We watched a film made in the 1920’s by
the son of the original plantation owner that showed scenes from his crossing
from England, and of daily life in Barbados and on the plantation: Bajan women and girls in their white
dresses and hats; workers cutting, bundling, and loading sugar cane into
horse-drawn carts; a boy waiting to catch a ride on the windmill; men firing
and assembling rims onto wooden wheels for carts; a Bajan man lurching down the
street after too much rum. Lastly,
we visited the mill and watched men feeding canes between its crushing wheels,
the beigey-green juice dripping down into the grate of a tank for
refining. (In Grenada, we had
bought a cup of cane juice of the same color from a vendor with a barrel-sized
stainless-steel cane juicer.) I
remarked to Justin on the drive home how much more interesting historical
places and stories become as I get older.
As a kid, I had always wondered how my parents could find such boring
things fascinating.
“The more of a relic you become, the more interested you are
in other relics,” Justin observed.
Among other phrases Toby has learned on this trip –
including, “don’t do sam-sing inchledibly styu-pid,” which we repeated often to
one another after our German landlord on the south coast said it, warning us
not to leave the house unlocked; and “shine like a diamond,” as Rihanna is big
in these parts – it was during our last week in Barbados that she learned,
“We’re here to rob the Coco House,” which we would joke amongst ourselves as we
pulled up to the guard’s booth at Sugar Hill, and which Toby repeated often to
our housekeeper, creating some confusion and discomfort.
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